i had to leave the coastline to get to the first point where one can cross the border. i had to follow the only road leading to tirane, which was sometimes in very bad condition an smelled of the cheap fuel used for cars and trucks. i cycled a bit faster to reach durres where i found a hotel which also had a camping site in their garden. quite an oasis where i stayed the next morning to do the laundry
it got a little better til i reached berat where i was told the road through the mountains is closed because of a landslide and i had to turn around.
i made my way back to fier and from there to gjirokaster. in between i saw the beautiful side of albania. less cars, fewer streets. mountains touching the clouds and i found a beautiful site for the night close to a almost dry riverbed
so it was a pleasing goodbye at the end of a sometimes difficult trip through a country which is mostly dominated by cars and the poverty while surrounded by neighbours who have made better progress towards wealth in the last decade.
most of the times the people i bought food from where honest and were trying to help. there were only two times where i was told a price which would be unbelievable high by our standards. this happened not with the poorest of the poor but rather in the city and bigger markets. usually i spent my 50 cent for a melon before i stopped for a siesta during the day.